The first Nautilus, designed by Genta and released in 1976 was reference 3700. However, fast forward five years and Patek Philippe decided there was a market, and it was time for a mid-size version of the innovative but slow-to-sell design (especially given the 3700 was 42mm), and thus reference 3800 was born. Launched to widen the appeal of the Nautilus range given its smaller-wearing case size, the watch is quite literally a scaled-down version of the utterly gorgeous and now hugely desirable 3700 elder sibling, featuring all the favourable features that the Nautilus carries, from its vertically ridged dial to its porthole-inspired case. Available in a much wider range of metals than its elder sibling, 3800 was available in steel, two tone steel and yellow gold, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold and platinum. Precious metal variants in general are the most rare, given the slight contradiction between precious metals and sports wristwatches. The watch also showcases an aesthetic change, with the addition of a sweeping seconds hand, signified by the “S C” within its calibre reference. Throughout its circa-25 year production lifespan, we saw a number of changes to the dials, print, clasps and hands. It is only early examples which feature both the infamous black date wheel, as well as the addition of an accent on the “Genève”, both showcased here.

Double-signed dials are most definitely an anomaly within watch collecting, and are prized and hunted by collectors worldwide. Famously we know of Tiffany & Co. stamping across Patek Philippe models, even to this day, however there is something hugely special and appealing to the Beyer signature showcased here. Beyer Chronometrie, based in Zurich, are in fact the oldest watch retailer in the world, and their relationship with Patek Philippe is an incredibly important one. First selling Patek Philippe watches in around 1842, Beyer Chronometrie are most definitely Patek Philippe’s most special relationship, and the relationship continues to this day between the two family-owned businesses (albeit not stamping their modern watches with “Beyer”).

Condition Report:

Given the age of this watch, being almost 40 years old, the example is in truly wonderful condition. To our knowledge and upon careful inspection, the dial and all three hands are completely original to the watch, in which both aspects showcase era-correct patina. Looking at the watch’s original Certificate of Origin, the dial is described as “Noir”, translating from French to English as black. Confusing to many, this is common practise with Patek Philippe in this era, and albeit stating “Noir”, the dial is in fact a sunburst-blue, which when being paired with the horizontally-embossed lines of the Nautilus dial, look superb. The dial features 11 round-cut diamonds, set by the factory. Its “BEYER” signature is incredibly clean, well-aligned, and shows absolutely zero sign of fading. The dial, aside from its show-stopping “BEYER” signature at the 6 o’clock position, has aged to a gorgeous blue colour, which displays differing tones depending on the light hitting it. The yellow gold hands, as expected from hands of such age, have noticeable marks across their highly polished surfaces, but just add character to the watch, and the luminous within the hands has aged to a cream tone, with a few minor cracks throughout the luminous. The bracelet has 19 links, excluding the end links, in which 6 are removable for sizing purposes. Unknowingly to many, the Beyer stock number for this watch was hand engraved in an astonishingly small fashion on the rear of one of the lugs, alongside the yellow gold case’s hallmark, adding to the watch’s originality and desirability. The watch alone is mightily impressive. However, its accompanying set and accessories set this example apart from the rest. Coming to us with its original box, Beyer-stamped Certificate of Origin, and even a Beyer-issued insurance valuation certificate, this truly is the perfect collector’s set, and really one of the most special examples of ref. 3800 to come to market.

• Year: 1986

• Reference Number: 3800/001J

• Material: Yellow Gold

• Size: 37.5mm

• Movement: Automatic Calibre 335 SC

• Waterproof: 60m

• Box Information: Original Box

• Extras: Original Certificate

• Strap: Yellow Gold Bracelet